Doxa Debuts the Sub 200T, a Compact Version of a Cult-Classic Dive Watch

The list of dive watches that can be considered truly iconic isn’t that long. The Rolex Submariner is on there, of course, along with the Omega Seamaster and the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms. Then there’s the Doxa Sub 300T.

Splashing onto the scene in 1967 with its cushion-shaped steel case, dual-scale bezel and “Professional” orange dial, the quirky Doxa Sub quickly became of the most lauded and recognizable divers ever. It’s been a favorite of such diverse personalities as undersea explorer Jacques Cousteau and Guy Fieri, but with its oversized 42.5mm case, not everyone can pull off the watch’s in-your-face style.

Now, however, fans of the style with smaller wrists can finally see what all the fuss is about. That’s because Doxa just launched the Sub 200T, essentially a scaled-down version of the icon. There’s even a new colorway.

Doxa

Doxa’s Signature Style, Now in a Smaller Package

The 39mm case size of the Sub 200T opens up the Doxa style to a wider array of wrist sizes.Doxa

The Doxa Sub 200T clocks in at 39mm across, with a tiny 41.5mm lug-to-lug distance and a thickness of just 10.7mm, putting the watch in a sweet spot for many wearers and opening up the style to a much wider variety of wrists.

Otherwise, the watch is visually almost indistinguishable from the larger Sub 300T. It’s available on the same beads of rice bracelet or matching rubber strap, it has the same dial layout (and same dial text, save for one digit) and it carries over Doxa’s signature patented dual-function bezel with its integrated no-decompression limit table.

Doxa has a long and storied history in the diving community.Doxa

There are some differences, however slight they may be. The shape of the case has been refined ever so slightly, with the lugs meeting the bracelet at a tighter tolerance than on the larger models. In typical Doxa fashion, the 200T is available in a range of fun colors, including favorites Professional (orange), Sharkhunter (black) and Aquamarine. There are eight colors available in total, but the color options for the 200T also bring something new to the table.

Choose Your Dial

Interestingly, most colors are available in what Doxa calls its “Iconic” style, which its regular matte dial finish, or a new “Sunray” style that gives a shimmering sunburst effect to the dials. I suspect most buyers will opt for the “Iconic” dial style — after all, if you’re buying a Doxa you’re probably doing so because you like its iconic status — while the “Sunray” option makes the watches a bit more contemporary.

Finally, out of the eight colors available, one is brand-new to Doxa: It’s a rich green shade that Doxa is calling Sea Emerald. It’s complemented by gold accents on the dial and is only available in the “Sunray” finish. The Sea Emerald watch is quite striking, and while it doesn’t scream “Doxa” to me, perhaps that will change with time. After all, it wasn’t that long ago when the now-standard Aquamarine was considered a departure for the brand.

All dials of the Sub 200T, except for the white dial, have the choice of a Sunray dial. Doxa

The Sub 200T introduces a new color to the Doxa family in Sea Emerald.Doxa

There’s Just 200m of Water Resistance

The Sub 200T has just 200m of water resistance. Now, if we’re being honest, that’s probably more than you or I need. But still, this is a Doxa, so I’d like to see that number bumped a little higher.

The Sub 300T is water-resistant to 1,200m, a rating which admittedly would make the svelte 200T too thick to wear comfortably if it were to go that route, but a depth rating of at least the Sub 300’s 300 meters seems doable to me without sacrificing wearability.

Otherwise, the Sub 200T offers the full Doxa experience: there’s a screw-down crown and caseback, an AR-coated sapphire crystal (flatter than the extreme domed one on the Sub 300 and akin to the one found on the 300T), plenty of Super-LumiNova on the hands and indices and a Swiss-made automatic movement (almost certainly a Sellita SW200) ticking away inside.

The Doxa Sub 200T is priced competitively, slotting between the entry-level Sub 200, which is styled more like a traditional diver than a Doxa, and the 300T in Doxa’s lineup. It’s priced at $1,550 on a rubber strap or $1,590 on the bracelet.

Doxa

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