What models could Rolex release at Watches and Wonders 2024? A new teaser from the brand offers several clues.
Rolex
Rolex has released its annual cryptic teaser video ahead of Watches and Wonders, and you know what that means: It’s time for wild speculation! As is usually the case, Rolex has given us some visual clues as to what watches we’ll see at next week’s show in Geneva, but many of those clues are (perhaps purposely) deceptive and could point to multiple different possibilities.
Here’s what we can say for sure: Rolex’s slogan for this year’s crop of watches is “When the Iconic Meets the Unexpected.” That suggests the brand will be mixing and matching some of its hallmarks — its bracelet styles, certain material configurations, etc. — on different models than we’d expect. And the teaser video certainly makes it look like that’s what’s in store.
Below, take a look at the full video from Rolex’s Instagram, then check out our breakdown of what we think we’re actually seeing.
Some New GMT-Masters
Rolex
In the weeks leading up to Watches & Wonders, the most prevalent Rolex rumor suggests that we’ll be getting a GMT-Master II with a red and black “Coke” bezel. This stems from the recent reveal that the brand filed a patent for a black-and-red Cerachrom bezel back in 2022, suggesting that a Coke is in the works.
There are no glimpses of a Coke bezel in the teaser, but there are hints at a new precious metal GMT-Master II in the form of a shot of an Oysterflex bracelet with the part number 350501 visible. That’s Rolex’s code for the Oysterflex used on 40mm models, currently limited to the Daytona and Sky-Dweller. The GMT-Master II is also 40mm, which suggests it could finally be getting an Oysterflex option.
Rolex
Oysterflex has thus far been limited to models in precious metal, and I don’t see that changing. That suggests the new GMT-Master II will be in white gold or platinum, judging from what we’ve seen from these images. And since Rolex’s first iteration of the Pepsi Cerachrom bezel was exclusively in white gold, I’m guessing the brand is going the same route here for the Coke.
But there’s another teaser that suggests a new stainless steel GMT-Master II, as well. This teaser shows a Jubilee bracelet and the edge of a rotating bezel. The bracelet looks too dull to be made of precious metal, which suggests a new steel GMT-Master II on a Jubilee is also in the works. I wouldn’t expect anything crazy like a Coke here, I’d say a Jubilee option for the “Sprite” is most likely.
An Everose Gold, Gem-Set Sky-Dweller on a Jubilee
Rolex
Another suggestion that Rolex is playing around more with its bracelets comes from a couple of shots of something in Everose Gold. One shot shows a diamond-set, fluted-style bezel, but the diamonds are baguettes rather than the round diamonds we see on Datejust or Day-Date bezels. This suggests it could be a gem-set Sky-Dweller, which fits the bill as a precious metal watch that’s sporty enough to pull off such a bezel. However, the crystal in the rendered image is extremely pronounced and doesn’t resemble any current Rolex offering, so I’m not sure what’s going on there.
Following the diamond bezel, there’s a shot of an Everose Gold watch on a Jubilee bracelet (see the lead image of this article). The bracelet here is fitted with a Glidelock clasp, so that rules out a Datejust. It could be an Everose Gold GMT-Master II, but I’m thinking the diamond-set Sky-Dweller is getting an appropriately dressy bracelet in the form of a Jubilee.
An Oscar-Worthy Day-Date (or Another Everose Sky-Dweller?)
Day-Date or Sky-Dweller?
3 original photos
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The video teaser begins with a shot of an Everose Gold President bracelet, followed by an Everose Gold fluted bezel over a charcoal dial and a Cyclops-adorned crystal. This seems most likely to be the Everose Gold Day-Date that Rolex quietly teased at the Oscars but has not yet announced.
But it could also be a misdirect. The slogan “When the Iconic Meets the Unexpected” suggests something more interesting, like an Everose Gold Sky-Dweller on a President bracelet, could be happening here. Especially since this watch appears to both open and close the video (it shows up on a woman’s wrist at the end), this watch would appear to be Rolex’s marquee release, and a President-equipped Sky-Dweller fits that bill far better than a new color dial for the Day-Date.
A Guilloché-Dial 1908 in Platinum
Rolex
The elongated minute hand and Arabic index of the 1908 dress watch are pretty unmistakable in this closeup, which shows a Guilloché-esque dial in ice blue. Is it real Guilloché? Possibly, but it’s more likely stamped or laser-engraved given the scale at which Rolex produces watches. The ice-blue color has previously been seen on a platinum Day-Date and Daytona, and it looks like the 1908 will be getting the platinum treatment in this version, too.
A Yellow Gold … Something
One or Two Watches?
2 original photos
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Lastly, this watch has me stumped. We clearly see a yellow gold watch on an Oyster bracelet, but the caseback is decidedly not yellow gold. It looks dark gray, suggesting a titanium caseback, which would make little sense. Perhaps it’s an out-of-focus (or simply not rendered) display caseback? That would make a lot more sense.
Another shot of what seems to be the same watch shows a side profile of the yellow gold case showing off a fluted bezel and a Cyclops, and the bulbous caseback suggests it could be a display caseback. Could this mean we’re getting a display caseback on a Day-Date? It certainly looks that way, but the Oyster bracelet is throwing me for a loop.
It could also be that we’re looking at two different yellow gold watches here, maybe a yellow gold Submariner or Sea-Dweller with a titanium caseback to keep the weight down, along with the aforementioned display-back Day-Date? We’ll get our answers on April 9 at Watches and Wonders.