You never actually own a Patek Philippe, you merely buy something else.
Patek Philippe, Chopard
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Designed by legendary watch designer Gérald Genta and making its debut on the market back in 1976, the Patek Philippe Nautilus ranks as one of the most iconic and sought after luxury watches ever produced. Alongside the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, also designed by Genta, the Nautilus helped to popularize the idea of stainless steel luxury sports watches with its sleek integrated bracelet design, stunning finishing and textured dial.
More recently, it — again, alongside the Royal Oak — helped drive the modern luxury watch boom, resulting in a hyper-inflated market that is just now coming down to reality. So successful was the Nautilus that Patek seemed to resent its popularity, taking the unheard of step of discontinuing the uber-popular blue-dialed stainless steel reference 5711/1A in 2021 before doing away with the time-only steel 5711 model altogether in 2022 following a pair of mega-hyped swan songs sporting green and Tiffany Blue dials, respectively.
“We cannot put a single watch on top of our pyramid,” Patek president Thierry Stern told The New York Times of his decision to discontinue the 5711.
Things have calmed down a bit since the discontinuation of the steel Nautilus as the pandemic-era luxury watch bubble has begun to burst. While 5711s were trading for over $150,000 at the height of the insanity, today you can pick one up for just shy of 100 grand — which is still around three times what the steel Nautilus last sold for at retail.
The fact remains that the Nautilus is still very popular, very hard to obtain and, above all else, very expensive. So if you’re lacking the significant funds needed to pick one up on the secondary market, here are six far more affordable watches that offer a similar vibe.
Yema Urban Traveler
Yema
Yema Urban Traveller
Specs
Case Size
39mm
Movement
Yema Cal. YEMA2000 automatic
Water Resistance
100m
Pros
Great value
Excellent sizing
Cons
Dial looks cheap compared to competitors
In-house movement’s longterm performance is untested
The Yema is a good deal more angular than the Nautilus, but I still think it’s a better dupe for the Patek than for a Royal Oak. My reasons are the flanks on the sides of the case that resemble the famed “ears” of the Nautilus, along with the vertical brushing on the bezel (cutouts notwithstanding). Ticking away inside the watch is Yema’s in-house YEMA2000 movement, which is an impressive feat for such a small company but is untested compared to comparable off-the-shelf alternatives.
Mido Multifort TV Big Date
Macy’s
Mido Multifort TV Big Date
Specs
Case Size
40mm
Movement
Mido Caliber 80 Big Date (ETA base)
Water Resistance
100m
Pros
Refined finishing for the price
The big date complication is fun and rarely seen at this price point
Cons
Design is too derivative for some
What’s with the lume-free pip on the bezel?
Truth be told, I think this knockout Mido is a better match for the Nautilus’s sportier sibling, the Patek Philippe Aquanaut, especially on the optional rubber strap. But on its bracelet, it’ll scratch your Nautilus itch. While not integrated, the bracelet has a similar look to the one found on the Nautilus thanks to its brushed H-links and polished center links.
The wide, vertically brushed bezel with its mirror-polished side — technically a TV shape but porthole-ish — also enhances the similarity to the Patek. And while the big date complication isn’t something you’ll find on a 5711, it’s still very welcome at this price.
Formex Essence ThirtyNine
Formex
Formex Essence ThirtyNine
Specs
Case Size
39mm
Movement
Sellita SW200-1 automatic
Water Resistance
100m
Pros
Packed with original tech
A true Swiss independent manufacturer feel rather for microbrand money
Cons
People unfamiliar with the brand will think the name “Formex” is a ripoff of “Rolex”
Hex screws on the bezel are somewhat off-putting from an aesthetic perspective
The Essence is sportier than the Nautilus; there’s no doubt about that. And it’s lacking an integrated bracelet. But the garage door-style dial — which is manufactured in-house by the brand, an extreme rarity at this price (and often, above) — reads very Nautilus, and the vertically brushed, side-polished bezel does, too.
Speaking of the Essence’s sportiness, its athleticism runs deeper than looks. The case has a patented spring-based suspension system for shock absorption, a trademark for the brand.
Frederique Constant Highlife
Frederique Constant
Frederique Constant Highlife Ladies Automatic
Specs
Case Size
34mm
Movement
Frederique Constant Cal. FC-303 automatic (Sellita base)
Water Resistance
50m
Pros
Solid value for money
Quick-change bracelet system
Cons
It’s too bad we can’t get this color in a larger size (hint, hint)
Movement is not COSC-certified like in the 41mm version
Yes, this is marketed as a ladies watch. But so what? It’s a 34mm integrated bracelet watch, which means it will wear just fine on most wrists regardless of gender. And if you’re hankering for a Tiffany Patek on the cheap, it’s probably the best option out there.
The finishing is solid and it’s powered by the same movement as the men’s 41mm version (which does not come with a Tiffany light blue dial), but I’d love to see the ladies version get the same COSC certification and 100m water resistance as the men’s model. Women (and men with small wrists) also appreciate accuracy and swim with their watches.
IWC Ingenieur
IWC
IWC Ingenieur
Specs
Case Size
40mm
Movement
IWC Cal. 32111 (Val Fleurier base)
Water Resistance
100m
Pros
A true Genta design, modernized
Absolutely gorgeous dial
Cons
The price seems overly ambitious
The movement should be better for the money
One of the most buzzed-about watch releases of 2023 was this, IWC’s long-anticipated revival of the Genta-designed version of the Ingenieur. Style-wise, there’s not much to dislike here. The watch is well-sized, beautifully finished and features a striking dial; with careful and thoughtful consideration taken to modernize Genta’s design just the right amount while still keeping it recognizable.
The one criticism people had was the price, which many felt was too high given that the watch is powered by a non-chronometer version of a movement that can be found in watches from Baume et Mercier for less than a third of the price. But compared to other porthole-inspired, Genta-designed watches like the Nautilus, it remains a downright bargain.
Chopard Alpine Eagle
Chopard
Chopard Alpine Eagle
Specs
Case Size
41mm
Movement
Chopard Cal. 01.01-C automatic
Water Resistance
100m
Pros
A striking dial unlike anything else
Fantastic in-house movement
Cons
The design is polarizing
A bit large at 41mm; 39mm would be money
Few would call any watch from Chopard “affordable,” and that includes the $14,000+ Alpine Eagle. But affordability is relative, especially in the often absurd world of luxury watches, and compared to a near-six-figure Nautilus, the Chopard is practically free (well, not really, but you get the idea). Its design incorporates obvious elements of the Nautilus — the bezel and the ears — while also channeling the Royal Oak with its exposed screws.
But despite those borrowed design traits, the Alpine Eagle still manages to create its own distinct look, thanks largely to the whirlpool dial that’s meant to resemble the iris of an eagle’s eye. It’s a beautiful dial, and when taken together with the whole package — a case and bracelet made from Chopard’s beautiful and durable Lucent Steel and a truly in-house, COSC-certified movement with a 60-hour power reserve — it quickly becomes a true competitor to the Nautilus rather than just a cheaper consolation prize.